Build a Case-The Wines That Define Summer 2024
Don’t want the summer to end? Or do you need to escape from the summer hecticness? Regardless of this summer was for you, here are some wines that capture those vibes.
Hot weather getaways. Team USA. The ever-changing landscape of life in general. That is how I am defining this summer. This past summer brought its typical travel bug and heat waves but also brought a sense of intensity and anticipation.
So what do we drink to kiss this whirlwind of a season goodbye and welcome a new season filled with just as much if not more intensity and anticipation? The best part of working in the beverage industry is channeling trends to our advantage and sharing them with people as curious and fun-loving as we are. Here are the trends I saw this season and the wines that best emulate those trends.
Chilling Out with Chilled Reds
I would be an oblivious idiot if I did not talk about the phenomenon of chilled red wine. This style of wine skyrocketed this summer as people gravitate more towards easy-drinking wine that seems basic but surprises them with nuanced flavors. My favorite thing about chilled reds is that they can easily be transitioned from one season to another and make the transition to cooler weather, the changing of the leaves, and earlier sunsets a little easier.
Domaine Chapel, Chiroubles, Beaujolais, France 2022
Gamay, the grape of Beaujolais, is a classic red wine to serve chilled. Gamay from this specific cru village is typically fresh and fragrant with aromas of strawberries, violets, and cherry liqueur. This wine from husband and wife team David and Michele Chapel couples the region’s signature floral and fruit flavors with mineral and herbaceous undertones that come out this wine is served chilled.
Antoine Graillot & Raúl Pérez 'Encinas' Mencia, Bierzo, Spain 2021
Mencia is one of Spain’s underrated red wines because of how its juicy red fruit is subtly contrasted with its earthiness and slight astringency. This collaboration project between famed winemaker Raúl Pérez and Antoine Graillot (son of Northern Rhône winemaker Alain Graillot) shows Mencia's mouth coating texture. When this wine is chilled, it’s great with summer-to-fall dishes such as duck rillette with mushrooms and sautéed summer squash with bacon.
Vinicola Cherchi, Cannonau di Sardegna, Sardegna 2020
If you like Grenache, you will like Cannonau because they are the same grape1. Cannonau is grown in Sardegna (i.e. the soccer ball Sicily is kicking) so the grape not only exudes aromas and flavors of ripe raspberries, blackberry compote, and ripe plums but also has an elevated acidity to make this a signature island red wine. Chilling this wine highlights its acidity while not sacrificing its plush texture–which you’ll want as the weather starts to chill out a bit.
Claus Preisinger, “Kieselstein”, Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria 2020
Austrian red wines are finally getting the attention they deserve. Zweigelt, a cross between St. Laurent (known for its broody cherry flavors) and Blaufränkisch (known for its firm tannin structure and black pepper aromas), has the bright fruit and spice flavors that shine through with a chill. Preisinger’s “Kieselstein” highlights those flavors while showing off the pebble terroir of the part of Burgenland, Austria this wine is from. That mineral backbone makes this wine great for summer-to-fall day drinking.
USA! USA! USA!
You’ve probably heard about and read all of the articles about the need for drinking more American wine. These articles just happen to go in tandem with a renewed sense of patriotism from the Olympics. That renewed sense of patriotism and concern about the American wine industry inspired sommeliers and wine writers to promote American wine. Maybe you could call this the “Wine Hot American Summer”?
Apollo’s Praise, Riesling Kabinett, Seneca Lake, New York 2023
Apollo’s Praise Winery is the latest project of Finger Lakes winemakers Kelby James Russell and his wife, Julia Rose Hoyle (previous projects include Red Newt Cellars and Hosmer Winery). This winemaking power couple are known for their powerful Rieslings and this one is no different. This light-bodied wine is NOT sweet. It has a ripe peachiness reminiscent of German Rieslings but it also has a refreshing acidity that makes you remember the times you wanted a cool drink on a hot summer day.
Messina Hof, Lepard Vineyard, Chenin Blanc, Texas High Plains, Texas 2023
Not all the press about the American wine industry is all doom and gloom fortunately. More and more publications are promoting wine made from other states such as Virginia, Pennsylvania, and Texas. Messina Hof, which has been around since 1977, specializes in red Bordeaux and Spanish varieties as well as aromatic white wine varieties such as Chenin Blanc, Gewurztraminer, and Viognier. Their Chenin Blanc, which they have produced since the 1980s, has the fall vibes of ripe apple and fresh honeysuckle flavors but the bright citrus aromas that remind you of summer.
Idlewild, “Flora and Fauna” Rosé, North Coast, California 2023
Since Jon Bonne published The New California Wine, more and more sommeliers and writers are excited about the fresher styles of California wine and the perspective of young winemakers in the state. Sam Bilbro’s Idlewild strives to make elegant wines from Piedmontese varieties grown in Northern California. This rosé, a blend of Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, and Barbera, has the crisp texture and juicy cherry and raspberry flavors you want from a quintessential summer rosé. Yet, this wine has a herbaceous, slightly savory undertones that pairs well with early fall food fests.
Analemma, Atavus, Blanc de Noir Sparkling, Columbia Gorge, Oregon 2018
I personally always go to California first and Missouri second (it is where America’s first defined viticultural area is located) when it comes to American wine history. But the Atavus vineyard in Columbia Gorge, Oregon has been around since the late 1960s. Analemma winemaking team Kris Fade and Steven Thompson started making sparkling wine from this historic vineyard in 2011 and the wine has evolved into a staple in their lineup. This bottle of bubbly is a great marriage of summer strawberries and toasted brioche aromas and flavors to enjoy during the slightly cooler days.
Facing the Changes
In the words of Bob Dylan, “the times, they are a-changin”. I’ve seen a lot of my colleagues take on new projects. The country also endured a change in the political landscape (hopefully for the better). This summer of transition geared us up for the next few months of what will define this year. What better way to drink to those next few months with the unfamiliar yet cool regions and producers.
Vivanco, Cuvée Inédita, Reserva Extra Brut, Rioja Espumoso 2019
If there is a wine region that goes through endless reinvention, it’s Rioja. These wines have been the best “recent” discovery for sommeliers looking for value for their lists or their fridges. Vivanco is a pioneer producer in Rioja sparklers with fourth generation owner and winemaker Rafael Vivanco being instrumental in including sparkling wine in the Rioja wine laws. Cuvée Inédita is their flagship sparkling wine using indigenous grapes. It has the lean texture that you want out of a summer bottle of bubbles but with some creamy complexity that feels like you’ve wrapped yourself in your favorite fall cardigan.
Ben Haines, Chardonnay, Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia 2022
Chardonnay seems so basic for a wine that signifies change. But have you had Chardonnay from Australia–especially one with so much minerality that you may confuse it for Chardonnay from Chablis or even Albariño? Ben Haines strives to make wine that shows the tension and elegance of wine from a cool climate area in Australia such as Yarra Valley. This wine has the quaffable citrus notes that can quench your thirst on an Indian Summer day.
Les Chemis de Bassac, “L’Incandescente”, Syrah, Languedoc, France 2023
Everyone talks about those dark rosés that drink like chilled reds and Syrah-based rosés fit that bill. While typically used as a blend for rosés, husband and wife team and former architect power couple Bruno and Thama Trigueiro put Syrah at the forefront. Beneath the dark pink color is a wine with the summer essence of ripe strawberries and raspberries with the fall pepper spice that pairs well with fall foods such as roasted pork with apples.
Gustinella, “Jungimmune” Rosso, Sicily 2022
You know how I mentioned earlier that if you like Grenache, you’d like Cannonau? Well, if you like Grenache, you’ll want to also try this expression of the variety. This Grenache-based blend is coming from the northwestern slopes of Mt. Etna. Owner and winemaker Sonia Gambino is making her wines in a wine that is reminiscent of winemaking from a very long time ago. While she is making wine that is an ode to past traditions, Gambino’s wines–specifically her Grenache–emphasize a lifted elegance that balances richness and complexity of flavor. This acknowledgement of the past to go forward in the future mirrors the overall sentiment of this past summer and upcoming events in the next season.
With that, I bid the summer of 2024 so long, farewell, auf wiedersehen, goodbye. May the fall bring everyone a continued sense of excitement. If it doesn’t, I hope these wines bring back warm weather memories.